‘Tate’s Bake Shop Cookbook’ Is a Pleasant Throwback to a Simpler Age
Leave the electric mixer behind and grab a spoon for once.
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Welcome to “Cookbook of the Week.” This is a series where I highlight cookbooks that are unique, easy to use, or just special to me. While finding a particular recipe online serves a quick purpose, flipping through a truly excellent cookbook has a magic all its own.
My cookbook of the week is often a hot new release, unless I decide to spotlight one that has been out for a few years. But I haven’t done a real throwback cookbook in a while. My very first cookbook of the week was Hershey’s Best-Loved Recipes, and while not quite as old, this week’s selection has been my trusted companion for quite some time.
This week I chose to highlight Tate’s Bake Shop Cookbook not only because it is packed withrecipes for fabulous sweet treats, but because it always offers a nice break from the annoyances of modern internet baking.
A bit about the book
Tate’s Bake Shop is an actual bakery in the Hamptons on Long Island. It’s a small shop with creaky wooden floors and a warm atmosphere—at least that’s how I remember it from when I worked in Bridgehampton for a summer. I would occasionally pop in and grab some cookies, but this was long before I realized they were the Tate’s Cookies—before their green bags started popping up in every grocery store cookie aisle. You may have tried the crispy, flat cookies Tate’s is now famous for, but did you know that they make more than cookies?
This cookbook is from the founder of Tate’s Bake Shop, Kathleen King. It turns out she makes a heck of a cookie...and a heck of a pie, and scone, and blueberry buckle. I love Tate's Bake Shop Cookbook because it’s filled with reliable, classic bakes. The entire Tate's brand is built on homemade, cozy, old-fashioned vibes, and that’s what you'll find in the pages of this cookbook.
There’s nothing flashy about it. It’s not striving to be a part of your coffee table decor. The recipes are mostly one-pagers with short head notes and simple text, and you’ll only find pictures in the center section. This is a cookbook that’s meant to be dog-eared, annotated, used by your kids, and accidentally splattered with flour—a cookbook made to be loved.
A great cookbook for a spoon and a bowl
While I’ve owned this cookbook for nearly 15 years, I haven’t cracked it open in a while. I meandered through the recipes and marked some titles that caught my eye, or that I remembered being tasty. As I read through the short directions, I noticed some trends: most of the recipes are mixed by hand, several recipes are from family or friends, and King uses salted butter without a care in the world for anyone else's opinion.
Seeing a cookbook, especially a baking cookbook, filled with short, easy to follow recipes is a breath of fresh air. Recipes that don’t require the use of an electric mixer are almost too good to be true. But here it is, each recipe is enticing in its simplicity: Sour Cream Pound Cake, Chocolate Jumbles, Sticky Toffee Date Pudding, and the recipe for the famous chocolate chip cookie that you know from the store.
Reading these recipes feels almost soothing. Dramatic, I know. But I often feel like social media recipes and newer cookbooks are throwing everything at me at once to catch my attention. This cookbook seems less an attempt at impressing readers with being on trend or shocking us with new flavor combinations, and more like a collection of personal favorite recipes from your hometown baker.
Baking from this cookbook feels like pastry meditation. No need to plug in an appliance or pause a YouTube video. Grab a bowl and a wooden spoon and take a moment to make something delicious. It’s great for a beginner baker, or anyone who enjoys baking in theory but hates dirtying too many bowls, or when recipes get complicated.
The dish I baked this week
I love a cookie, but we already know how good the Tate’s cookie is, so I wanted to showcase something else. Luckily, blueberry season is here, and that made my decision for me. I settled on the Blueberry Buckle.
Without taking a picture of the actual recipe (which isn’t cool to do), I want to illustrate the simplicity of this buckle: The instructions for the whole cake, with a crumb topping, are completed in 12 lines. The headnote includes a three-sentence story about how it won a bake-off in Maine, and how King’s niece improved the crumb texture. If you’ve ever just wanted a recipe to cut to the chase, this is it.
A buckle is a cake-like treat with a crumb topping and fresh fruit mixed into it. (Between buckles, betties, cobblers, and crisps, it’s easy to get confused.) The cake batter is easy to stir together by hand. Employing salted butter eliminates worrying about measuring yet another ingredient, and all of the other ingredients were readily available in my pantry. In roughly 15 minutes, I was ready to throw an entire cake into the oven.
I don’t know that I’ve had a buckle before, but I definitely would have voted for this to win that bake-off. The cake component is utterly tender, and I don’t really know why or how—there’s no sour cream or buttermilk involved. It must just be a perfect balance of tenderizing fat and strengthening gluten. The ratio of blueberries to cake is also perfect. I know folks are always begging for more berries, but if you have too many then the berries sink or they make the cake too wet. The crumb topping is exactly as it should be—sweet, buttery, and lightly spiced. It’s good enough to eat on its own.
I could see myself making this buckle for a picnic, or a friend’s summer birthday brunch. June is just around the corner, so I'll keep my copy of Tate’s Bake Shop Cookbook handy for other berry-centric bakes this summer.
How to buy it
Despite being an older book, it’s still available in the hardcover. However, if you’re keen to save a buck, do check out your local used bookstores. Older books like this are almost always available used for a fraction of the original retail price. If you’re more of a digital baker, you can also spend less and download the ebook.
